250v fuse how many amps




















There is no such grade. What won't an audiophile not beleive? Just had to repeat yourself one more time, eh, dup? That idea has nothing to do with the thread. Stick to the thread and we'll all be better off, particularly since we've read your ideas about audio grade fuses a few hundred times before. The bottom line is that it is clear that the issue is as complex as I expected and that no one here, except perhaps Ergonaut, really understands how the various factors relate to each other.

Ergonaut's responses are very helpful: "In-line Protection technology is actually very complex in its design, and testing it even more so -- for designers it is a complex science" and "So under bench simulation conditions we will work out what is "good enough" - it is never precise.

This explains why the majority of us have only a vague sense of what really is going on. We know that exceeding that amp rating of a fuse will cause it to blow. Thus, we know that we should by the same fuse rating when replacing a blown fuse but not much - if anything - more. The Bussman materials I found address fuse failure as a function of two variables, current and time. I don't see references to the impact that differences in voltage has, although I may be missing this.

This is what I am interested in learning. I acknowledge that the following question was imprecise: "a v 5 amp fuse carrying 5 watts of power in a 1V circuit would blow, correct? As fuse manufacturers list different fuses for different voltages, voltage obviously matters. How is an amp at 5V different than an amp at V? It appears that an amp isn't just an amp, and there is more to fuses than simply current against time. I'm still curious about the concept of "headroom" in fuses.

Is this a real concept? If so, how is it quantified? I can speculate with the best of you. I would prefer actually knowing however. I stand corrected, DUP. I was just trying to make the point that a fuse will pass the current that it is rated to pass, not blow when the current flow reaches that rating.

Yes, time does matter. A 5 amp fuse will, eventually, melt down if that current draw continues for too long. That's why there are slo-blow fuses Fuses are rated for current-carrying ability and for maximum voltage of the circuit in which they will be used. High-current fuses have heavier fuse element and have a relatively large diameter. Low-current fuses may be smaller with a minimal fuse element.

A low-voltage circuit fuse can be physically short where as fuses for high-voltage circuit are long. This prevents any high voltage that is in the circuit from jumping across the fuse termination points once the fuse element is blown.

And I agree with you on the "audio grade" fuses. I've never seen a video grade fuse either. The intention of a fuse is to interrupt the circuit when the current draw exceeds the amperage rating of the fuse. Time is not negotiable. I'm curious as to why you won't accept that answer. There is more potential for work at the higher voltage.

How long would to take to make your toast if the toaster were limited to 1 Volt but could draw 5 Amps? Voltage ratings for a fuse are meant to give a working range which then has an effect on time. Time, however, is still not negotiable.

I have no difficulty with the concept that time is a critical variable. But this isn't my question. Once again, fuse manufacturers list different fuses for different voltages. Thus, voltage obviously matters. How does voltage come into play in the design of fuses?

That is, how is an amp at 5V different than an amp at V as far as a fuse is concerned? We all know that higher voltage at a given amperage can do more work, but this isn't the question. The question is whether differences in voltage at a given amperage affect a fuse differently. Assume further that the fuse is subject to the current for a long time read: I am taking time out of the equation to get an answer to my question.

I remain curious about the concept of "headroom" in fuses which Jan introduced. Are you looking for an answer that says the fuse will remain in circuit for this specific amount of time at 1 V and for this specific amount of time at V?

The answer, I would assume, would be stated in hundreths of a second and very dependent upon the load at the end of the circuit. More than likely just long enough to do damage but not long enough for you to react to the situation. It would seem clear from the answers already provided that you cannot remove time form the issue. Current and time are the most important factors in when the fuse opens. The answer still stands that the fuse will open when its amperage rating is exceeded independent of voltage.

The fuse companies do have tables which indicate the variables of fuses. Have you gone to these to find your answer? I believe we've reached the point of discussing angels and pinpoints or dead is dead when you want to make voltage the only variable consideration. Are you only interested in how much time elapses between one fuse and another?

That is how I read your question. Can I ask why, after all of this, you don't call a fuse manufacturer and ask the people who should know? I'm also curious how this question came to you while reading the current no pun issue of Stereophile. Maybe cus' somethings blows in the current issue? And it ain't realted to a ckt overload? If the voltage rating on a fuse has one so befuddled, how bout voltage ratings on anything, why are switches made for different applications, and different voltages, even if they are rated for the same current?

If teh fuses have you baffled, why not use ckt brakers On motor ckts, ya use differet ckt breakers than reistive loads only. For refrigeration loads teh breakers need to be HACR rated So when you add a line for soem high powered amps, ya gots to use those regular breakers, and just suffer from teh non audio rated service panel too.

The voltage rating of a fuse defines how much voltage it will withstand after it blows. Exceed that rating and it may arc short. Can you answer my curiosity question as to whether an amp in a 1V circuit is different than an amp in a V circuit? I don't mean for this to be controversial, simply a question about the basic characteristics of electricity.

So far no one appears to know, although there is lots of speculation and commentary. The fuse has no idea what voltages are present in the circuit until it blows and drops all the voltage across the now open circuit. Let's say the fuse has a resistance of a tenth of an ohm. The fuse doesn't know whether there's 1 volt on one side and zero on the other, or volts on one side and on the other.

Let me know if I can clarify this further, but it won't be tonight. Smart fuses DO know which side has what voltages Oh, yeah. The Smart Fuze , it knows, when it blows, and it blose when it knows, but do it knows it bloze before it blose? Fuses, the final frontier of audio nonsense No one has mentioned "fuse fatigue" Yes, the voltage rating does indicate at what voltage an arc may occur - that's why some fuses are larger than others.

The lower the voltage the physically smaller the fuse can be. I've never seen a fuse with polarity. Is there a manufacturer that makes AC or DC fuse? How about positive or negative fuses? DUP: Does a smart fuse know when it is becoming fatigued? Fortuitously, I happened to have dinner Friday evening with an engineer who used to work as a designer with Wadia first incarnation, when they were in Wisconsin.

I lead a high-speed run on some local twisty roads - he came along, having just acquired a new Porsche. Great to meet someone with two shared interests. He explained that an amp really, truly is an amp - regardless of voltage. Thus, once the amperage exceeds the fuse rating the fuse should blow. That is, 1 amp of 1V current will blow a 1 amp V fuse. This answered my initial question: is an amp an amp?

An answer! However, things get complicated as ergonaut previously explained when one needs to pick the appropriate fuse for a given circuit as the fuse behaves as an active component. The details are actually quite fascinating and beyond what I could accurately recite hear.

Now for the annoying part: he opined that "audiophile" fuses actually make a difference. He has no idea why - even after having cut one open, although it does look different inside from a "regular" fuse. He indicates that the largest improvement is in the bass and that anyone with reasonably discerning ears will hear the difference on a good system. It bugs him that he and others can reliably hear the difference, and he can't explain the difference electrically.

A fuse may blow because of problems with the interlock switches or with high voltage circuitry. It is also possible, though rare, that a power surge will cause a fuse to blow. A soft reset simply backs users out of the programming that is active on the display screen of the microwave.

A hard reset , on the other hand, should likely fix any temporary problems with the microwave's memory. Plugs for appliances rated between about watts and watts the maximum rating of a wall socket should be fitted with a amp fuse coloured brown. For example: 13A Fuse — Washing machine, dishwasher, microwave , kettle, toaster, iron. This high voltage powers the magnetron to heat the food. If the diode burns out, the magnetron won't receive enough voltage to operate, preventing the microwave from heating.

When the diode fails, it is often visibly burned out. Inspect the diode and if the diode is burned out, replace it. If so, you can reset it by turning it all the way off, then on again. If yours is a gas dryer , and it's plugged into a volt ground fault interrupting outlet, the outlet itself could have have tripped. You can reset it by pressing the reset button on the front of the plug.

However, if you want to mount it over your stove, you must ensure that the microwave you choose will fit in the space you have. Over the Range Microwaves and Advantiums: Over the range microwaves require a minimum 66" mounting height from floor to top of the micro. The 66" from the floor dimension will allow approximately 13"" between the cooktop and the bottom front of the microwave.

Cost Factors. You also need to factor in the costs for: The microwave itself. Typical microwave is between inches in height. That's a good "rule of thumb" but it's really up to the manufacturer to specify the mounting dimensions.

As such, the average sink installation cost varies, largely depending on your style of choice. The second method is to add a bucking transformer to the primary, and thus reduce the input voltage. Yet another way to reduce the amplitude of voltage fluctuations is to reduce the changes of reactive power in the supply system.

You can do this by installing dynamic voltage stabilizers. Their effectiveness depends mainly on their rated power and speed of reaction. The current required to carry a given power decrease when you increase the voltage because the power is the product of the current with the voltage and power factor. Undervoltage can damage things too. Components not getting enough power can be damaged because the power delivery is butbut it is no where near as bad as overvolting.

The Bottom Line. Ideally, the average voltage over a hour period should be So, the voltage should be above volts about half the time and below volts the other half of the time. Begin typing your search term above and press enter to search. Press ESC to cancel.

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